Tracy Arm Fjord, Alaska: Glacier Boat Tour

So far we both agree that one of the most amazing things we’ve done on this trip was a boat tour to the Tracy Arm Fjord, about 45 miles or so south of Juneau.  You can only get there by boat (or plane or helicopter, I suppose).  A couple of Juneau-based companies offer daytrip tours to the fjord, but based on Trip Advisor reviews we chose Adventure Bound Alaska Tours and we were very happy with that choice.

A fjord is a deep, long, narrow body of water that was carved by ice-age glaciers many thousands of years ago.  The Tracy Arm is still being carved by two tidewater glaciers (the North and South Sawyer glaciers), and floating throughout the fjord you’ll see large and small icebergs that have recently calved off of the glaciers.  Some of the icebergs even had occupants – there were a couple of eagles perched on the ice, and we also saw hundreds of harbor seals nursing their pups.

Captain Steve expertly guided the boat through the fjord, past otter-pop-blue icebergs and fairytale waterfalls cascading thousands of feet down the sheer rock face.  He brought the bow of the boat so close to one waterfall that we could reach right out and touch the spray.

The boat slowed way down as we approached the glacier because we entered a veritable sea of icebergs – I’m sure navigation under these conditions requires a great deal of concentration.  I know I wouldn’t want to be at the helm!

Our initial glimpse of the South Sawyer Glacier was an awesome sight.  We weren’t the only boat there, but the face of the glacier is more than a half-mile wide so there was plenty of room for everyone.

Once he found a good spot at a safe distance, the captain turned off the engines so we could listen to the ice.  We’d hear a crack like a gunshot and little chunks would roll down the face into the water.  All of the passengers were lined up at the rail, our cameras at the ready, hoping to see something spectacular.  Finally, it happened: a loud rumble as a huge boulder of ice tumbled into the sea, causing a wave that rocked the boat a few minutes later.  Kevin was quick on the draw with the camera, capturing the moment of impact.  (To give an idea of the scale, those black dots on the ice are seals.)

We stayed at the glacier for an hour, then motored over to the slightly smaller North Sawyer and watched that one for an hour as well.  Overall, we saw about a half-dozen large-scale calvings, but no “shooters” (which is where the ice breaks off below the water and shoots up to the surface).  The boat had left Juneau at 8 a.m. and didn’t get back until after 6 p.m. – it was a long day for us but totally worth it.