Saturday, November 20, 2021

Portugal - Braga Day Trip

Braga is a little over an hour from Porto by train and it is a nice escape from the noise and tourist crowds (yes, even in November during a pandemic there are still tourist crowds). One of the main sights in the city is the Santuário do Bom Jesus do Monte, a shrine on a hillside just outside town.


It is a 17th century Christian pilgrimage site dedicated to the Holy Cross. Pilgrims would slowly climb the zigzag staircase and contemplate how the five senses and the material world contrasts with the spiritual world. On each landing is a chapel and a fountain with water pouring from a statue's eyes, ears, nose, mouth etc. to illustrate the point. 


Today we encountered more health-minded pilgrims who seem to use the stairway and gardens as a place to exercise and walk their dogs. We outsmarted the system and took the old cable car to get to the top so that we could walk down the 577 steps instead of up.



Once at the top, the sanctuary is quiet and peaceful. And the surrounding park has its own artificial grotto.


There are some great views of Braga down below. Braga is much smaller than Porto, maybe 190,000 people compared to Porto's metro area of about 1.5 million.


The history of Braga goes back for millennia; people have been living here since before the Romans came to this part of the Iberian peninsula in 134 BC. There are many public squares and parks, and it seemed like everyone was out enjoying the last of the sunny November weather (it is supposed to get colder and rainier next week).


During the Middle Ages, the city was a main center of Christianity. Around every corner there seems to be a church or a chapel. Behind the city sign is the beautiful Igreja de São Marcos.


Beautiful buildings are everywhere in this town. This is the Palácio do Raio, a private residence originally built by a wealthy merchant. It was designed by Portuguese architect André Soares in the 1750's.


Construction began on the Sé de Braga (cathedral) in the 11th century and the structure has been enlarged and renovated over the centuries. It is a mix of architectural styles -- Romanesque, Gothic, Manueline, Baroque and Neoclassical.


We took a guided tour of the interior and the guide took us into several locked chapels to see the elaborate decoration and carved altarpieces. This is the Capela de São Geraldo, the patron saint of Braga.


One of the loveliest spots in town was the Jardim de Santa Bárbara (Garden of Saint Barbara). It is a formal and serene space with blooming roses and recently re-planted winter flower beds. It's located alongside the bishop's palace, and the gothic arcade ruins used to be part of a palace wall. So pretty! 



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