Lower Montmartre and Pigalle

Hmmm...how to put this?  I would suggest that you use some discretion when viewing the last photo in this post as I would call it NSFW (not safe for work).  You see, we took a walk through some of the seedier sections of Montmartre today, and well...you'll see.
We started off innocently enough, near the tourist crowds and funky boutiques between the base of Sacré Coeur and the Abbesses metro stop.

This secondhand shop had some pretty cameos for sale.

But this vintage shop was all closed up, and it wasn't even a Monday.

Our attempt at a self-portrait in front of the Mur des Je T'aime wasn't super-successful.  Someday I plan to learn how to set the timer on the camera, since holding it at arms length results in "iffy" photo angles.

Nearby was the Église Saint-Jean-de-Montmartre, built in the early 1900's.  I liked the simple styling of the interior.

This mosaic altar in one of the chapels was very pretty.

There was more tilework outside, on this memorial to the men of Montmartre who died fighting in World War I.

It was kind of gray and drizzly outside, so not many people were having lunch on the terraces.

Anyone seen a unicorn?  Someone seems to have lost theirs.  Some identifying characteristics:
     *  It's a large female
     *  It's white with a big horn in the middle of its forehead
     *  It is very friendly
     *  Last seen at the Concorde entrance to the Tuileries Garden.
Yes "RECOMPENSE" means "reward".  I dare you to call the number.

This dreary day seemed like the perfect time to visit the Cimetière de Montmartre.

Some of the headstones and tombs were quite moving.  This tomb was being wiped down after the rain by (I'm assuming) a family member or friend.

The roses still had fresh raindrops on them.

This war hero's headstone is inscribed with his military medals.  Just by looking at it (and using Wikipedia) you can tell a lot about this brave man: Legion of Honor (the highest military decoration in France) and a Resistance fighter who fought in WWII combat and was imprisoned by the enemy.  But at the foot of the tomb was a small engraved message stating simply "À Mon Père" (To My Father).

This tombstone's long list of deceased made us curious...just how many people could they fit in one small plot?  And we saw several "empty" plots...were they still available to purchase?  (These and any other questions you might have about Parisian cemeteries are answered here.)

Of course the Cimetière de Montmartre also has its share of famous people.  There are plot maps posted throughout, but since the cemetery is on a hillside it can be a challenge to find them.

Since Kevin used to play the saxophone, we found our way to the crypt of Adolphe Sax, its inventor.

And the family tomb of De Gas is also here (painter Edgar Degas changed the spelling of his surname later in life).

After exiting the cemetery, we found ourselves on the Boulevard de Clichy, the street where the Moulin Rouge is located.  This district, known as Pigalle, is also home to several other less-than-classy establishments.

Tucked in among all the sex shops and peep shows is the Musée de l'Érotisme.

The five floors of the museum showcase art that is focused on all elements of sexuality, from pre-Christian religious art to vintage racy photos from the Victorian era through the 1930's.  We did go inside, and photos were allowed.  But Kevin, who seems to think he has editorial control over the content of the blog just because he pays the bills, would not allow me to publish any of the ones I took.  His reluctance is understandable, since his mom seems to be our blog's only reader!  However in the interest of freedom of the press and artistic expression, and just out of basic childish stubborness, I will include one photo anyway.

The Arts in Montmartre

A few days ago, we took a walk around the Montmartre area.

The picturesque Taverne de Montmartre on Rue Gabrielle

It was such a gorgeous day and as we walked it became obvious that art, in all its different mediums, is a huge part of what makes Montmartre so vibrant.

We stopped first at the Mur des Je T'aime -- a monument to love -- where the words "I Love You" are translated into 250 languages.

Above the monument is a small cartoon that says "Love is disorder...so love!"

There were several brightly colored graffiti murals in the area.

In the Place du Tertre, a more traditional style of painting was exhibited.

Of course I don't want to leave out the performance artists.  In addition to buskers, violinists playing the tango, and a live band, we also saw this troupe of performers singing chansons backed by an accordion.  They drew a huge crowd.

This living statue was so still my sister Margaret didn't realize it was a person at first.

There was even a puppet show re-enacting the biblical story of Noah's Ark.

The square in front of Sacré Coeur was packed with people enjoying the beautiful day and breathtaking view.

Here is a shot of the Sacré Coeur, since I think the last time I posted one it had some kind of scaffolding/ramp on the front terraces.

Montmartre

Fans of the movie "Amelie" will recognize some of the photos we took today around Montmartre.  It's a bohemian, artsy kind of place, but it has its share of quiet photogenic residential streets as well.  

We started our stroll at the Blanche metro stop and were greeted with a view of the iconic Moulin Rouge, a cabaret where dinner and a show will set you back 150 euros or more per person.

We continued up on the haphazardly twisty Rue Lepic, past shops and cafes.

We did walk past the Tabac des Deux Moulins (where Amelie worked in the film) but it appeared to be permanently closed.  Also it was so unphotogenic that it did not occur to me to take a picture...sorry about that!

We noticed this odd sculpture in a small park on Rue Girardon.  It's from a short story by Marcel Ayme about a man who can walk through walls, "Le Passe Muraille".

Some wiseguy gave the statue a manicure.

We have seen these strange stickers throughout the city.

To Kevin's credit, he took this picture under protest.

The Rue de l'Abreuvoir is straight out of a fairy tale.

Around the corner is the only vineyard left within Paris's city limits.  The Clos Montmartre vines are harvested each October and they celebrate the vendange with a big party.

The vineyard with a small flower garden in the foreground.

Just across the street is a nightclub called Au Lapin Agile - it was a popular hangout for intellectuals and artists in the early 20th century.

More street views of the Rue des Seules.

Surreal doorknocker, Rue des Seules

Turning down the Rue Lamarck, we caught a first view of the white domes of Sacré Coeur.

Up until this point we felt like we had all of Montmartre to ourselves since we had seen very few tourist crowds, but once we got to the Place Tertre we found our fellow tourists out in full force.  For a breather, we stepped into the 12th century church of St. Pierre de Montmartre.

We then made our way to the Espace Dalí, which is a museum dedicated to the works of the surrealist artist.  My only knowledge of his work consists of the few melting watch slides I'd seen in a college art history class.  That seems to definitely be a theme in his work.

Judging from the works on display and a short art video of the wild-eyed, mustachioed artist himself, the mind of Dalí was a very bizarre one.

And finally we reach the church of Sacré Coeur at the top of the Butte Montmartre.

Photo taking was prohibited inside; we're not sure why.  It doesn't matter; I found the outside of the church much more noteworthy than the interior.  At least it would have been, had there not been some kind of ski jump/bike ramp scaffolding all down the hill in front.

We then made our way to the Abbesses Metro stop, passing the carousel below Sacré Coeur (also seen in "Amelie").  A long, but satisfying, walk!