Japan - Traditional Takayama

We took the very scenic Hida Wide Express train from Kyoto to the mountain town of Takayama. We had booked two nights at a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn. Ryokans typically provide one or two meals, and usually have an onsen-style bath onsite. We thought it would be a good way to immerse ourselves in Japanese culture. At the main entrance to the inn, we exchanged our street shoes for house slippers and we were shown to our room.

As you can see, there was not much decoration in the room – the floor was covered with finely-woven straw tatami mats, there was a low table and some cushions to sit on, and not much else.  (In the alcove there were two western-style chairs and a mini-fridge. We ended up spending a surprising amount of time sitting in that tiny room). You might be wondering, where is the bed?  Yeah, we wondered that too. It turns out the bedding was all folded up in a cupboard near the room entrance. A two-person turndown team came around each night after dinner to set up the thin futon mattress on the floor. Then they came and put it away again each morning!

So the comfort level of the room itself left a little bit to be desired. But our primary reason for booking a ryokan was to try a traditional kaiseki dinner. The dinner is served in your room by your own personal maid/waitress who sets the table and brings the dishes in multiple courses, all very artistically arranged.

On its website, our ryokan boasts (proudly and repeatedly) that they "specialize in the local Hida beef”. Like Kobe beef, Hida beef comes from Japanese Wagyu cattle that are specifically bred for the fine quality of fat marbling throughout each cut.

Seated awkwardly on the floor, we actually cooked the beef course of each meal ourselves. (I guess we are the true Hida beef specialists now!) The first night it was shabu-shabu style -- thin strips of beef cooked quickly in boiling broth. The second night it was thicker slabs of beef barbecued on a tiny hibachi grill. Both meals were truly delicious. Kanpai to the chef!

However, the breakfast was not so delicious, to be honest. We both consider ourselves to be pretty adventurous eaters, and will try anything once. But rubbery seaweed and salted fish is just not what I typically crave when I think of breakfast food. It was a bit of an ordeal to get through all the dishes they served at breakfast. Hey, at least we got to sit in normal chairs though!

With our bellies full, we then set about exploring the town despite the rain. At least we didn't have to fight any crowds.

Takayama has a beautiful old town area, with traditional wooden buildings lining the main street and lots of boutique shops selling handicrafts, local foods, and even several sake vendors. Even in the rain it was a charming place.

On our second day in town, we explored the morning market followed by a walk to the Sakurayama Hachimangu shrine, the oldest shrine in Takayama.

Then we headed inside the Festival Float Exhibition Hall. Takayama is particularly famous for its Matsuri, a festival that takes place twice a year – in April and October.  They have held this festival for the past 350 years, culminating in a parade of gilded wooden floats that are manually carried or pulled through the streets.  (Some have wheels and some do not). Several of the floats have moveable marionettes that perform for the crowds.  Unfortunately we were visiting about a week too early to be able to see the Spring Festival, but we were happy to be able to see the floats on display at this excellent little museum.

Our final stop in Takayama was the Hida Folk Village (Hida No Sato). This is an outdoor museum displaying various regional architectural styles. More than 30 historical and culturally important buildings were moved to this location to preserve them for future generations.

Traditional architecture in the area includes farmhouses built in the Gassho style, having thick thatched roofs that are steeply pitched to withstand the weight of snowfall in this part of Japan. Inside, a large open hearth sunk into the middle of the floor provides heat and a space for cooking. Considering how chilly and rainy it was during this part of our trip, I can see why the farmers of this area would want a cozy thatched-roof cottage when the winter snows hit.